|
Overall
Design
These are
generally high water use plants which need a sunny positon. Site very
tough shrubs on the exposed side to act as a windbreak and protect them.
Slowing down the hot dry winds is a very important water saving feature.
It will also prevent damage to the more delicate plants.
|
|
Planning
Before
planting you will need to investigate and analyse:
Orientation,
sun and shade, the prevailing winds.
Topography, water run off.
Soil types, water holding capacity compaction, water repellence, fertility
levels.
Availability of accessible ground water.
Views both inwards and outwards.
Overall area available for the garden.
|
And
consider your oher needs for:
Utility
spaces (clothes drying, compost and storage areas).
Outdoor living spaces (barbecues, seating areas).
Special needs (vegetable garden, swimming pool; etc).
Functional and aesthetic requirements.
Plant preference and design styles (native/exotic, formal/informal etc.)
Maintenance expectations.
Budget available.
|
|
General
Design Principles
Do not plant
areas unless it is necessary for functional or aesthetic reasons.
Maximise the use of non-planting treatments such as paving and mulches.
At the same time, beware of excessive unshaded paving which can be hot
and glaring.
Vary materials and arrange planting to frame and shade paved areas.
Make use of windbreaks, pergolas, screen lattice, shadecloth and vines
to shelter the house, outdoor living areas and plants.
Keep planted area dense and consolidated. Sparse scattered plants are
more difficult to water efficiently than ones that are in defined areas.
Keep lawn to the minimum consistent with functional and aesthetic requirements.
Avoid planting lawn on slopes or in narrow necks or paths which are difficult
to water efficiently and maintain.
Garden design blueprints in a variety of themes are available from leading
nurseries.
|
|
Hydrozoning
Apply
the principles of hydrozoning to plant selection and arrangement:
A broad selection
of plants may be used, but keep high water-demand plants to a minimum.
Arrange plants having similar water requirements together (hyrdrozoning)
and take this into account when deciding soil improvement and mulching,
and when managing irrigation.
Some leading
nurseries label their plants with drop icons signifying the appropriate
hydrozone, dscribed in three categories:
Primary (3
drops) high water use plants
Secondary (2 drops); moderate water use plant
Elemental (1 drop); low water use palnts.
|
|
Garden
Practices
Soil
improvement in the garden:
Adding organic matter to the soil improves both its moisture and nutrient
holding capacity thus saving on water and fertilizer. It is particularly
important to improve the top 15-20 cm of soil where the feeder roots of
plants will develop. Old animal manures, compost and proprietary products
are ideal soil improvers. Mix them in equal parts with the soil prior
to planting out.
Use
these points as a guide:
Shrubs,
groundcovers and climbers 30cm in depth and up to half a metre across.
Trees 40cm deep and 1 metre across and bedding plants 25 cm deep for the
whole bed.
Garden soils are just as prone to becoming non-wettable as are lawn areas.
A regular application of a soil wetting agent in spring is recommended.
|
Soils
for containers (including hanging baskets)
Choose the best quality potting mix you can afford, preferably one approved
by the Australian Standards Association.
The water and nutrient holding capacity of potting mixes can be further
enhanced by the use of water absorbent polymers. Some potting mixes already
contain them.
Most plants are now grown in soil-less mixes which become non-wettable if
allowed to dry out. Soil wetting agents are also very useful, and may need
to be applied more than once a year.
A regular application of a soil wetting agent in spring is recommended. |
|
Mulching
Mulching
is enormously beneficial for all plants. The mulch should be spread over
the entire planted area to a minimum thickness of 50mm.
Organic
mulches are preferred because they:
Break
down over time and feed the plants.
Improve the soil organic matter content as they break down.
Reduce evaporation loss from the surface.
Encourage earthworms and soil microbial activity.
Restrict week growth. Any weeks which do germinate are easy to remove.
Prevent wind and water erosion.
Protect the roots from daily temperature fluctuations.
Improve the appearance of the garden area.
|
|
Mulching
material
Raw
water materials like woodchips, chipped tree waste or similar, whether
bought-in or homemade, are ideal mulching materials. However, if the mulch
is watered regularly you may need to add some extra nitrogen in the form
of animal manures, blood and bone etc, to prevent the natural breaking
down process from drawing nitrogen away from the plants.
Materials such as lucerne hay, pea straw, seaweed and compost can be used
for mulch, but since they are more expensive and break down quicker, they
are best used within the drip zone of plants.
Lawn clippings do not make a good mulch, they are best composted. However,
if mixed with a coarser material like chipped prunings or woodchips they
can be used as mulch.
Old newspapers can be used under a mulch as a week control layer, however,
thick overlapping layers of newspapers may prevent water penetration.
|
Applying
mulches
For
general garden use mulches should be spread at 50-75mm thick.
Always leave a breathing space of 50mm around stems and trunks of plants.
Organic mulches enriched with animal manures are enormously beneficial
when applied thickly (to 30cm) around the drop zone of fruit trees. They
should be topped up as necessary during spring, summer and autumn to maintain
a minimum thickness (after settling) of 15 cm.
Vegetable gardens should be mulched with "softer" mulches such
as compost, pea, hay or lucerne straw or seaweed.
In garden areas mulches should be topped up as necessary; perhaps twice
a year in both autumn and spring.
Mulches should never be raked up, turned over, dug in or disturbed in
any way. To do so will damage the fine feeder roots which plants develop
in the zone between the mulch and the soil.
|
Changing
an established garden
If your garden has grown like topsy with little bits all over the place
you can change it round:Most
of the high water plants have shallow root systems and can be easily transplanted
in winter into their respective groups.
Hardy, low water and drought tolerant species cannot normally be moved because
of their very deep root systems.
The type, area and location of lawn in the garden can be reconsidered. If
you choose to convert some areas of lawn to a a lower water use treatment
make sure that the replacement plants or ground treatments are more water
efficient than grass. Check with your local member of the Nursery Industry
Association. |
|
Maintenance
Do
not force plants on with large amounts of strong fertilizers. They produce
lush growth that has a high water transpiration rate and is more prone
to insect and fungal attack.
Slow release fertisliers, including animal manures, are the best type.
The produce steady, healthy growth and minimal leaching of nutrients into
the ground water.
|
|
Bedding
plants
Plan
your flower beds to be mass displays.
Do not place a few plants here or there in odd spaces all over the garden,
but ratehr group your flowers together in a suitable area which can be
watered independently of other areas of the garden.
|
|
TWENTY
TIPS FOR A WATERWISE GARDEN
Appreciating
the economic, environmental and psychological benefits of palnts is easy.
Just imagine a world without them. These assets, and the time and money
already invested in landscapes, re reason enough to preserve thjem. Water
Wise gardening has advantages of its own: stronger plants, less maintenance,
lowered water bills and decreased demand on natural resources. Even in
drought-free conditions, these principles make good gardening sense.
- Group
plants according to water requirements to avoid over-or-under watering
- Use plants
that need less water. Plenty of attractive varieties meet this definition.
- Install
new plants when reliable rainfal is expected. In many regions, Autumn
is the best time to plant.
- Build
basins around shrubs and trees to limit runoff.
- Mulch
to reduce moisture evaporation.
- Fertilize
properly - too much stimulates thristy new growth.
- Pruning
keeps plants strong and less water dependent.
- Prioritize
watering. New plants need more frequent watering than established trees
and shrubs.
- Irrigate
lawns only when needed. If grass springs back up after you walk on it,
it doesn't need water. Or, let your lawn grow dormant; most grasses
rebound when rains return.
- Mow higher
and less often. Longer leaf surfaces encourage deeper roofing and shade
roots. Mowing puts grass under additional stress that requires more
water.
- Water
plants when the soil is dry, not before.
- Use a
srping-loaded hose spray or hose-end turn-off device.
- Adjust
sprinklers so water reaches lawns and gardens, not pavement.
- Inspect
sprinkler systems for leaks.
- Time your
watering. Water early to decrese evaporation. Avoid windy days for the
same reasons.
- Water
infrequently, deeply, and thoroughly. This stops wasteful runoff and
encourages deeper root development. Plants with deep roots develop greater
tolerance to dry spells.
- Install
a drip irrigating system. You'll save us to 60 percent of the water
used by sprinklers.
- Movel
container plants to shady areas. Watering them over the root area of
atree puts excess wter to good use.
- Remove
weeds. Weeds rob water and nutients from valuable plants.
- Watch
the wether. Don't irrigate if rain is predicted. Skip at least one watering
after a good rain. Cut back watering times and frequencies in cool and/or
humid weather.
|
|
By using
water wisely, you will:  
- Reduce
the need for new dams and supply systems
- Keep your
water bills down
- Make large
savings on your energy bills for water heating
- Reduce
the risk of water restrictions
- Reduce
the impact on the environment.
Be
WaterWise…..it's worth it !
|